Tuesday, 13 September 2016

Review Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915 replica plays off of these roots, updating them for a dial and case design in keeping with the Transocean collection. An angled pusher sits at 2 o’clock, above the fluted crown. The silvered dial has a bicompax display: a small-seconds subdial is at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The hands and Arabic numerals have luminous coating. A date window can be found at 6 o’clock.

The watch has a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 43 mm. The dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with nonreflective coating. The caseback also is made of sapphire to reveal the movement; it also shows an engraving to mark the occasion: “100e anniversaire 1915-2015.” The watch comes on a crocodile strap or on the Ocean Classic steel-mesh bracelet. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

Whereas Transocean watches usually have the Breitling 01 automatic movement, the Transocean Chronograph 1915 uses a new manufacture movement. Chronometer-certified by COSC, Caliber B14 is a hand-wound movement running in 33 jewels. It has a 70-hour power reserve. Thanks to a frequency of 28,800 vph, the chronograph can time events up to a 1/4 of a second. The seconds scale around the dial is graduated to divide up the minute into 240 parts. Caliber B14 has a double column-wheel construction, arranged in two tiers.

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Review Tudor North Flag

Tudor North Flag replica derives its name and design inspiration from the British North Greenland Expedition in the early 1950s, in which members of the expedition team wore circa-1952 Tudor Oyster Prince models. These “tool watches” were instrumental in carrying out this exploratory mission to some of the earth’s harshest climatic conditions. The North Flag derives some of its “scientific equipment” look from these early watches: a satin-brushed steel case (40 mm in diameter) with ergonomic curves, highlighted by a bezel composed of matte ceramic on one side and brushed steel on the other, along with a conical winding crown that screws down for a 100-meter water resistance. The caseback features a sapphire window — a first for Tudor, believe it or not — through which one can view the watchmakers’ pride and joy, automatic Caliber MT5621.

Tudor’s movement — which, according to Kelly, has been in the works since 2010 — features a minimal level of decoration and a matte look, which is both perfectly suitable for the North Flag’s tool-watch aesthetic and instrumental in keeping the price point at a comfortable level for Tudor fans. However, it does not skimp on many other important technical features: it’s equipped with both a date display and a power-reserve indicator; it’s got a power reserve of 70 hours; it beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a variable inertia oscillator equipped with a silicon balance spring; and its automatic winding system is bidirectional. Perhaps most notably, and in another first for the Tudor brand, Caliber MT5621 is officially chronometer-certified by COSC.

The Tudor North Flag is available with either an integrated, satin-finished steel bracelet with polished-link interfaces, or with a matte black leather strap with yellow top-stitching and lining, both with folding clasps.

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